Miss Marmalade, Bondi Junction

"Decaf coffee is like kissing your sister!" The wall, Miss Marmalade

8am, Monday morning. I walk briskly to Bondi Junction station to catch the train to work, an icy wind biting the tip of my nose. At 8 degrees Celsius, my head is down, scarf tightly wound and gloved hands jammed into my pockets. Oxford St is a peripheral blur of sleepy shops, loud buses and early morning commuters. 

 

A warm blast of air and chilled music jolts me out of my determined stride as I pass Miss Marmalade. An oasis of warmth in the Sydney chill, Miss Marmalade is a surprisingly cozy vintage haven, chalk scribbled all over the walls with irreverent quotes amongst the art. The walls may be cheeky but this establishment is clearly serious about its coffee, and appeals to the demand for organic and fair-trade that is flourishing in Bondi but surprisingly scarce in the junction itself. 

I break my mad rush to order a coffee from the dimpled waiter who grins and banters with me while I wait. A laugh, a sensational coffee and a moment of serenity in an otherwise routine trip to work; thanks to Miss Marmalade for a gentle reminder to stop and smell the coffee beans.

 

Bread & Circus, Alexandria

“We were the generation of dreamers”, says John Bechara, stopping for a chat while gathering plates. Reclining in stripy deck chairs, we bask in the Autumn sunshine and find ourselves engaged in a philosophical discussion while sipping organic blueberry smoothies. “We studied for the sake of learning, challenged traditions and explored the ideas of the world…”.

Riding the revolving door schedule of fast paced city living, days blend without warning into indistinctive weeks and months pass before we seem to have a chance to blink. It’s a rare treat to venture out of routine, crack a pattern and find our eyes jolted open to delights on our doorstep.

At ‘Bread & Circus’ in Alexandria, Bechara’s daughter Amanda is busy preparing food in the kitchen, laughing with customers and generally running the show (with her boyfriend and co-owner, Danny Goldstein). A trendy warehouse style canteen in a re-used brick factory, giant spoons hang on the wall, gourmet condiments line the counter and pineapples hang out with jars of homemade jam on geometrically aligned shelves. The version of the latin phrase panem et circenses is an apt reference to frivolous appeasement methods adopted by the Ancient Roman senate to distract the population from serious civic concerns. 

Artfully combining healthy, organic produce, an edgy location and eclectic décor to create a positive distraction from all concerns – civic or otherwise - Bread & Circus manages to tick all of the boxes for implied success in the discerning Inner West. A welcoming sunny space made friendlier with a cheeky music selection, a healthy menu of fresh produce that regularly changes, and creative presentation of dishes, the three month old eatery is buzzing on a Sunday afternoon.

We order the sustainable steamed barramundi sandwich box – a biodegradable box full of “fresh bright quirky organic sandwich fillings w/ freshly cut slices of sourdough & salady side things” - and a mix of unusual but delicious salads. The “sandwich” is a smorgasbord of DIY ingredients, elevating the humble concept of two slices of bread and filling to the next level. Each bite oozes health, professionally and thoughtfully executed while maintaining its rustic originality.

Easily exceeding standard expectations, the X-factor of Bread & Circus is the warmth behind the smiles, the genuine hospitality that only comes from owners passionate about their creation. With Amanda’s dad gathering plates, her boyfriend manning the counter and her mum checking on customers, Bread & Circus is a friendly oasis nestled among the industrial streets of Alexandria.

A Master of Philosophy and hailing from Lebanon, Bechara pops by again to see how we’re getting on. Already a familiar face, he regales us with tales rich with history, stokes debates over culture, and glows with pride as he speaks of his daughter’s venture. This chance encounter with John - a common feature of travelling but rare in the comfortable routine of life at home - is one of those moments where life seems to pause, a reminder that colour, depth and philosophy are ever present behind everyday interactions if one takes a moment to notice. 

From the giant bags of chickpeas lining the floor to the carefully selected tea menu (“brewed by a tea neurotic”), Bread & Circus inspires one to revert to the mindset of the traveller, unravel stories and join the generation of dreamers - at least for an afternoon. 

"When you realise how perfect everything is, you will tilt your head back and laugh at the sky"
Buddha

Are you a man or a mollusc? Crabbe Hole cafe, Icebergs

“Be a man - not a mollusc” declares a membership rule emblazoned on the wall of Bondi Icebergs, reflecting the tough constitution drawn up by founders in 1929. To become a true Iceberg, one must spend three of four Winter Sundays doing laps of the pool for five years, completing a minimum total of 75 during the period. The individuals overcome races in icy conditions, rough swells and actual ice blocks to achieve the hard-earned, highly sought after membership.

Crabbe Hole cafe

For those of us content with mere mollusc status, the Crabbe Hole café is an oft overlooked Bondi gem that allows enjoyment of billionaire views with top-notch coffee and artisan bread. A blend of poolside casual and Bondi chic, the laidback friendly service and plastic chairs common at any suburban public pool kiosk accompany a menu of Pat and Stick's gourmet ice creams and Sonoma sandwiches. A mirror above the counter reflects the paintbox blue of the ocean pool, framed by rocks and set above the beach. Large yellow umbrellas provide ample respite from the sun, and clientele of every demographic avail themselves of the well-priced yet selectively premium fare.

Perched on the ledge above the pool and below the RSL, one can watch the colourful caps of swimmers traverse the lanes while an equal number of tanned bodies stake prime poolside real estate, clustering on the steps and surrounds to worship the sun while avoiding the sand.

Fig and walnut bread ($5 with jam), a coffee ($3.50) and the Sunday paper may not be a fortuitous beginning for those preparing for five years of Iceberg initiation, but if you’re content to be a mere mollusc, this is a hole in the wall worth a visit.

Mocha $3.50

Fig & Walnut toast $5

Il Fornaio, St Kilda

With the hot new ‘we’re so cool we’ve made an effort to look like we’ve made no effort’ cafes flourishing all over Sydney, it’s easy to forget that Melbourne has been doing super-urban, hipster laneway style café bars since Fawkner established his colonial settlement in 1835 (give or take a few years).  This possibly explains why Melbourne was Australia’s most populous city for approximately ten years until 1891*.

Melbourne invented the menu on a blackboard, minimalist warehouse look furnished with high quality baked goods that have become the hallmark ingredients of success and originality for recent additions to the Sydney café /bar scene.  Stumbling across Il Fornaio on a sunny St Kilda morning, we discover real plants on the walls, random stuffed toys on the ceiling and a well thought out menu that does Melbournites proud.  Not to mention the cheeky, hipster waiters who banter with us mercilessly as we navigate the tricky sweet versus savoury brunch debate.

With Entourage Season 1 and a date with Conrad (bidding up to $60) distracting us from the main game, we enjoy our fair-trade, organic coffee  (made with “magic beans”) and peruse the menu.  Despite the irresistible array of cakes beckoning to us from the counter, savoury wins. And impresses.

*...and then they realised that Sydney had beaches.

Cafe Dov

Potts Point.  The postcode 2011 is synonymous with trendy, urban cafes, hidden streets and discerning customers.  With new cafes opening faster than one can say (and spell) skim-soy-decaf-mochachino, an establishment has to offer something special to ensure fickle customers aren’t enticed by the shinier or shabbier furniture down the next alley.

Visiting Café Dov for a ladies lunch, a full house indicates that they’ve found an effective formula to ward off the competition and keep the crowds loyal. Despite a bustling dining room, the staff go out of their way to be friendly, shuffling the tables like magicians to create somewhere for us to sit.

A creative menu, seasonal and local produce and a buzzing atmosphere, Café Dov has raised the bar for café competition in Potts Point.   A couple of menu highlights...

Cafe Dov chicken salad

Corn fritters with spinach, poached egg and tomato relish

Baked ricotta with poached rhubarb, apple puree and fresh strawberries